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Material and Quality
The hat industry is very interesting and detailed, which may be subsequently confusing
to the consumer or retailer. Basically because there are so many different materials,
quality rating and constructions on the market.
Our experience proves that some hats do renovate better than others, the more you invest
in a hat does not necessarily make it a tougher or easier hat to work on. In today's
finishing process, some hats require special powders and greases to give the new hat a
fine finish. Bleeding and slight discoloration after use in some cases is unavoidable.
The "X" quality in hat bodies originally identified the quality and material in that
particular hat body, although there are several conflicting theories on where the "X"
marking originated. The most believable one is simply that most factory workers in
the 1700s and 1800s were illiterate and bundles of fur were marked with an "X" or "X's"
based on fineness, much the same as coffee or flour.
Felt hat bodies today can be made from Cashmere, Beaver, Hare, Rabbit and Wool or any
combination of the above. It is fact that beaver content in a hat body will give you
better serviceability and that "X's" by number signifies a better hat, but it is also
fact that companies use their own standards for "X" quality. This result's in a 20X
hat from one company can, and most likely is, different than a 20X hat from another
company. In truth beaver quality does not necessarily mean that the hat body has any
actual beaver in it. Realizing this is confusing to the consumer one must understand
that today "X" quality is a marketing term and that companies rate their own hats to
their own standards.
The sweatband is another component that is critical in the serviceability of a hat.
There are a countless number of different sweatbands being used today, materials from
leather to nylon, to cotton. There again the consumer's purpose and expectations will
determine what type of sweatband is right for them. Sheepskin is considered to be the
best-accepted material used. The installation of the sweatband is very important, the
rounded edge on the bottom side of the sweatband is referred to as the "reed". Ideally
the sweatband should be sewn in from the inside and the reed rolled around the outside
\edge, if this is correct the skin on the forehead sits against the leather not the
reed. If the sweat is installed and the reed sits too far up into the crown this
stitching will sit against the skin, this will cause the sweatband to deteriorate faster
and prove to be uncomfortable. Ideally the sweatband should be cut slightly smaller
than the hat body itself. This will allow the wearer's head to fit the band opposed to
the hat; the type of stitching will also determine how well the hat will conform.
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Standard wooden hat block used in manufacturing and repairing hats.
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Fit
The finished hat ideally needs to fit the wearer's head with contact evenly front to
back and side to side just above the ears even though a quality hat with a leather sweat
will conform as the individual wears it. The initial fit needs to be close. Choosing
a shelf or finished hat in the correct oval is important. Shelf hats are available in
Extra-Long Oval, Long Oval, and Round Oval.
Every individual has a slightly unique shape to their head. For example a person with
a round oval head will have problems with a long oval hat, even though the hat may be
tight side to side if there is no contact from front to back this hat will not stay on.
Forcing it on will cause the brim to wrap and the hat will squeeze off the wearer's head.
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